Unicorns, Mermaids and Tulle; Allow Thom Browne To Put You to Sleep in The Best Way Possible
Thom Browne’s Spring 2018 show took place in the Hotel de Ville in Paris but transported its audience to that of a world far from its reality. “An American in Paris, dreams of couture” was the given narrative to the show- a fitting tale for Browne’s first ready to wear collection shown in Paris.
The collection consisted almost entirely of tulle which was used to convey the magic of dreaming alongside the large-scale planet shaped lanterns hanging from the ceiling and the centered bed- a perfect place to dream. Disney’s The Little Mermaid’s ‘Part of Your World” filled the silence and reiterated the show’s plea for acceptance and awe of another world, perhaps this is a nudge towards Thom Browne’s sentiments towards Paris couture.
The show began with two identical structures which engulfed the models that sported them as they danced along the catwalk in a performance art style. Refusing to be missed, the models stayed present and visible throughout the show, often dancing at the other models as more looks graced the catwalk.
Constructional shapes were a motif throughout the collection with a multitude of large cocoon-like shapes taking center stage, made interestingly and surprisingly by tulle to explore the dreams in “a sole fabric which he twists, waves, gather, ruffles, cuts, and molds into his own idea of the couture wardrobe”
The idea of an otherworldly dream was constant throughout and explored through the themes of both space and underwater with literal space helmets and cowboy hats, but also more subtle reminders of an underwater world with nautical themed embroideries of anchors and even tulle morphed into tentacle shapes wrapped around the front of a tea length A-line dress- surprisingly one of the most wearable garments of a seemingly otherwise collection, although patterned ulster coats, capelets and novelty dog shaped tote bags were also wearable components. This collaboration between the curiosity of space and underwater world allowed the audience to dive into a double dimension which was described as a “double dream, dreamt on another planet, dreaming of another beauty that is in fact reality”
The finale of the show was a dream in itself and like that of a cliché Hollywood film scene set in heaven, white was the only shade to be seen as a giant tulle unicorn was led down the runway, leash included, by a feather and translucent helmet adorned model.
With Thom Browne, a dream isn’t just a wish your heart makes, it’s pearl-like crushed sequin embellishments and a tulle unicorn.
Catwalk Report- Year 1 (Thom Browne)
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